DIGGING INTO WHAT ‘ORGANIC’ REALLY MEANS AND WHAT TO TRUST

In the UK, September signals the start of autumn and the return to school. It is also National Organic Month, which celebrates and promotes organic products from vegetables to meat, eggs and even cotton.

But with an increasing range of products labelled as organic, it is often difficult to know what ‘organic’ means, whether you can trust the claims and – most importantly – whether the products are better for both the environment and your family.

Our sustainability expert, Sarah Walkley, takes a look at the different labels and what they mean.

Organic is a way of farming that is designed to work with and promote nature. It encompasses the highest animal welfare standards, as well as techniques that enhance the soil health and water and air quality. Organic farms are a haven for wildlife. The richer soils also absorb more carbon.

A raft of produces from vegetables to t-shirts and shampoos claim to have been produced organically. Indeed, much of the produce sold in small farm shops probably has been grown under organic conditions. However, unless a product has been certified, it is very difficult to tell.

Certification is both expensive and time-consuming, so small farmers tend not to apply. If you buy from a farm shop, the best way to understand how the vegetables have been produced is to talk to the staff.

I spy…

If you want to be sure, the best thing is to look for a label. But with badges declaring everything from responsibly or sustainably sourced, to natural, British-grown and fair trade, how do you know which is the right one?

Groups like the Better Cotton Initiative or the RSPO (Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil) are trying to improve sustainability, but may focus on improving workers’ rights, or land and water use.

The most useful label to keep an eye out for is the Soil Association logo. The Soil Association certifies over 70% of organic foods in the UK. It also works with global standards organisations to assess other products, so its logo maybe used in combination with other standards, such as Cosmos for beauty products.

For cotton, there are two standards: the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) and the Organic Content Standard (OCS).

Historically, there have been multiple standards for beauty products, but these have been amalgamated under the Cosmos Organic label into a single global benchmark. Again, the UK Soil Association was involved in establishing these standards and conducting assessments in the UK.

Soil Association logo

Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) logo

Organic Content Standard (OCS) logo

Cosmos Organic logo

What is organic?

So what do farmers have to do to make the grade?

Food

For food to be classified as organic, it must be produced:

• without the use of artificial pesticides, allowing beneficial insects such as ladybirds and beetles to control populations of slugs, caterpillars and aphids. Natural pesticides, such as citronella, may be used, but only under strict conditions;

• without the use of artificial fertilisers. Farmers rotate different crops to maintain healthy, nutrient-rich soils; and

• without any form of genetic modification.

Livestock farming

Livestock farming must also meet the highest animal welfare standards. There should be no use of antibiotics or growth enhancers.

Processed foods

Processed foods have to be made with at least 95% organic ingredients and should be free from any artificial colourings or preservatives, as well as ingredients such as the artificial sweetener aspartame and monosodium glutamate.

Cotton

Cotton has to be grown in the same way as food – without the use of pesticides and fertilisers. Fabrics bearing the GOTS label must also be produced using low impact dyes. Producers are also assessed on their water use and treatment of wastewater, as well as their record on human rights.

Cosmetics

For beauty products to meet the standard, they must contain at least 95% organic ingredients. If they contain palm oil, then this must be from a sustainable source, while the use of genetically modified ingredients, parabens, phthalates and synthetic colours, dyes or fragrances is banned. They must also meet strict standards on water use and there should be not testing on animals.

Just remember that is a product claims it is organic but isn’t certified, there is no way of knowing if the claim is valid.

Sarah Walkley is a freelance writer and researcher on a mission to empower everyone to play their part in addressing climate change and nature loss.

She set up Purplefully to help organisations develop their sustainability strategy and communication.